Ciqikou means porcelain port. From the Ming dynasty onward it was a working wharf on the Jialing where pottery and general cargo were loaded onto river boats, and it grew into a dense commercial quarter of narrow lanes, warehouses, guild halls and temples. The name came from the kilns that produced ceramics here for centuries.
The lanes
The heart of the old town is a main street of stone steps climbing away from the river, with side lanes branching off in both directions. The buildings are timber and brick with sloping roofs, and many retain their original shopfront scale. It is heavily commercial and busy, but the fabric of the lanes and the way the town steps up the hillside are genuine, and the side alleys are much quieter than the main street.
What to do
The food stalls are the main attraction: Chongqing hotpot in small pots, xiaomian noodles, grilled skewers, sweet rice cakes, douhua in chili oil, and sesame sweets. There are teahouses where you can sit and drink for an hour, several temples, a small museum on local history, and shops selling ceramics in reference to the town's past. From the lower end of the street there is a view of the Jialing River and the bridge beyond.
Practical notes
Ciqikou is in the Shapingba district, on the metro, about thirty minutes from the city center. It is very crowded at weekends and on holidays; a weekday morning is much better. Wear shoes with grip, since the streets are stepped and the stone is polished smooth in places. Allow two to three hours, more if you plan to eat properly and sit in a teahouse.
