Black Valley, Heishangu in Chinese, lies in the Wansheng district in the south of Chongqing municipality, near the border with Guizhou. It is a deep, narrow gorge cut through limestone, running for over a dozen kilometres, with a walkway and a small road running its whole length. Because the gorge is deep and wooded, it stays markedly cooler than the city, which is why it is a summer destination for people from Chongqing.
The gorge
The valley floor is wet and green, with a stream running along the bottom, pools, rapids and waterfalls coming down the side walls. The rock is limestone, so the gorge walls are steep and the smaller side valleys hang above the main channel. In places the walls close in to just a few metres, and the whole valley is shaded by trees. Because it is a humid subtropical forest, the vegetation is dense - mosses, ferns, climbers, bamboo and broadleaf trees - and the colours are dark, which explains the name.
Walking it
The main route follows the valley, mostly on wooden boardwalks and stone paths, with bridges crossing the stream repeatedly and occasional flights of steps up the side of the gorge. It is roughly a full day on foot if you walk the entire length, though most visitors walk a section and use the internal shuttle or a raft for the rest. Points of interest along the way include named waterfalls, deep pools, narrow passages between cliff walls and a stretch where the path passes behind a waterfall.
What to expect
Because the valley bottom is shaded and damp, the path can be slippery, and the temperature is several degrees cooler than the surrounding plateau. Expect many steps, boardwalks and narrow sections, and expect to get wet feet near the waterfalls. Facilities are limited to the entrances and a few stops, so carry water and food. There are rafts and small boats on part of the stream, and a cable car connects a section of the upper valley, which is useful if you do not want to walk the whole thing.
Practical notes
Wansheng is about two hours by road from central Chongqing, and the gorge has its own transport connections and entrances at either end. There is an entrance fee plus charges for the internal shuttle and the cable car. The best season is summer for the cool and the water, and autumn for the colour; the valley can be closed or restricted after heavy rain because of flash flooding, so check conditions before travelling in the wet season. Wear shoes with grip and bring a light waterproof layer.
