Sichuan peppercorn is not a pepper at all. It is the dried husk of the fruit of a citrus-family tree, and its active compound causes the tingling, buzzing sensation the Chinese call ma. Combined with chili, which provides la, it produces the flavor the region is named for. The best peppercorn in China comes from Hanyuan and Maoxian in Sichuan, and from a few valleys in Gansu.
What to look for
Good dried pepper is a fresh pink to deep red, not brown or grey. The husks should be whole and open, with the small black seed mostly removed, because the seed is bitter and adds nothing. Crush one between your fingers: it should smell sharply of citrus and flowers, and a moment later your fingertips should tingle. Bulk pepper sold cheaply in big sacks is often old and has lost most of its aroma.
Where to buy
Chengdu's large wholesale spice markets sell pepper, dried chilies, fermented bean paste, pickled vegetables and dozens of other Sichuan staples by weight. Smaller shops near the teahouses and in the old streets sell retail quantities and will vacuum-seal for travel. The dried chili sold alongside it comes in several grades, from large mild er jing tiao to small and fierce chao tian jiao.
Practical notes
Buy whole pepper, not ground; it keeps its aroma far longer. Store it in an airtight jar away from light. Check your country's import rules before bringing plant material home; most allow dried spices for personal use, but the rules vary. A modest bag costs very little and is the single best food souvenir from Chengdu.
