Shichahai is not one lake but three - Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai - strung together north of Beihai Park and west of the Drum and Bell Towers. It is the largest surviving piece of the old water network that once linked the imperial palaces to the Grand Canal, and the whole shoreline sits inside a protected historic district of grey-brick courtyard houses.
Walking the shore
The classic circuit starts at the northern end of the Lotus Market and follows Houhai counterclockwise. It takes about 90 minutes at a slow pace and is flat the whole way, which makes it one of the easiest half-day walks in Beijing. Willows line the water, elderly residents fish and swim, and in winter the lake freezes hard enough for the ice skates that appear on the eastern arm.
Yinding Bridge
Where Qianhai meets Houhai, a single-arch stone bridge called Yinding Qiao - Silver Ingot Bridge - carries the lane between the two lakes. Stand on it facing west on a clear day and the Western Hills are framed by the water in the distance. This view has been painted for centuries and is still the reason most photographers stop here.
Boats and bars
From spring through autumn you can rent a pedal boat or an electric boat by the hour from jetties on the east and south shores; bring your passport as a deposit. After dark the north bank turns into a long line of small bars and courtyard restaurants, most of them with rooftop or waterside seating. They are aimed at visitors and prices reflect that, but a drink by the water under the willow trees is worth the premium.
Getting there and timing
Take Metro Line 8 to Shichahai, or Line 6 to Beihai North and walk five minutes north. Go in the late afternoon: you get daylight on the water, sunset from Yinding Bridge and the bars lighting up in one visit. Weekends after 6 p.m. are crowded, and the alleys to the north and west are quiet at almost any hour.
