Two markets carry most of Beijing's visitor shopping, and they could hardly be more different in feel. Hongqiao Market sits just east of the Temple of Heaven and has been trading since the early 1980s. Silk Street, on the edge of the diplomatic quarter near Yonganli, is a tall, brightly lit building that replaced the old open-air Xiushui Street stalls.
Hongqiao Market
The ground floor is fresh produce and dry goods, which is worth a look in its own right. Above it, floor after floor of small counters sell pearls, jade, amber, turquoise, silk scarves, electronics and toys. The pearl trade is the original business and still the strongest: freshwater strands, baroque pearls, and loose pearls sold by the string. Staff will happily thread a necklace while you wait. Quality varies enormously, and so does the asking price.
Silk Street
Silk Street is the place for fabric, tailor-made clothing and copies of well-known bags. Tailors can measure you in the morning and deliver a suit or a dress within a few days, which is why the market is popular with business visitors. Silk by the metre, cashmere, table linen and embroidered jackets are all on offer, along with a very large number of watches and bags that are openly imitations. Chinese customs and your own country's import rules apply to all of it.
Bargaining
Neither market has fixed prices for visitors, and the first number is a suggestion rather than a price. A common approach is to offer around a third of the opening figure, expect to settle somewhere between a third and a half, and be genuinely willing to walk away - walking out of the shop and being called back is normal. Smile, keep it light, and never name a price you would not actually pay.
Getting there and what to know
Hongqiao is a short walk from Tiantan Dongmen station on Line 5; Silk Street is near Yonganli on Lines 1 and 10. Both open daily from mid-morning until early evening. Bring a phone with a translation app and be prepared for persistent but good-humoured sales pressure. If you are buying jade or pearls as an investment rather than a souvenir, get an independent opinion first.
