Guijie - literally Ghost Street - is the unofficial name of Dongzhimen Inner Street, a straight line of restaurants running roughly 1.5 kilometres east from the Dongzhimen overpass. The name comes from the old belief that the street was busy at night when the rest of the city was asleep, and the nickname stuck. There are well over a hundred eating houses along it, packed shoulder to shoulder, and most stay open until two or three in the morning.
What people actually order
Crayfish - mala longxia - is the signature dish, served in metal basins with Sichuan peppercorn, chilli and garlic, and eaten with the hands. Alongside it you will find Chongqing-style hotpot with a divided pot, grilled fish, lamb skewers dusted with cumin, and cold beer by the crate. Portions are large and meant for sharing, so the street works best with four or more people. If you are not used to heat, ask for wei la, mild, and expect it to still be warm by most standards.
How an evening runs
Doors open in the late afternoon for early diners, but the street only wakes up around nine. By ten there are queues outside the best-known houses and staff standing in the road waving customers in. The busiest stretch sits between the Dongzhimen and Beixinqiao ends. Waiters usually speak limited English, but almost every menu has photographs, and pointing works perfectly well.
Cost and practicalities
Expect to pay somewhere in the region of 100 to 200 yuan per person for a full meal with drinks, less if you stick to skewers and beer. Bring cash-free payment if you have it, since mobile payment dominates, though larger houses can take cards or cash. The atmosphere is loud, smoky and entirely informal; this is not a quiet dinner. Air-conditioned private rooms are available upstairs in most restaurants if the street haze gets too much.
Getting there
Dongzhimen station is the natural entry point, served by Metro Lines 2 and 13 and the Airport Express. Take exit A and the street begins a minute away. Taxis are easy to find late at night along the main road. If you are staying in the Sanlitun or Gulou area, a taxi back takes fifteen to twenty minutes once the roads empty out after midnight.
