Beijing's live music scene is smaller than it was a decade ago, when the clubs along the Gulou streets were the centre of Chinese independent rock, but it has not disappeared. What remains is concentrated in a handful of venues inside the Second Ring Road, mostly in and around Dongcheng, and the economics are simple: small rooms, cheap tickets, late starts. For a visitor it is one of the few ways to spend an evening that has nothing to do with historic sites.
What there is to hear
Three strands run in parallel. The first is rock and post-punk, played by Chinese bands in clubs that hold a few hundred standing, where the sound is loud and the beer is warm. The second is jazz, mostly in hotel bars and a couple of dedicated rooms, ranging from standards trios to more experimental sets. The third is folk and singer-songwriter work, often in cafes with a stage in the corner, closer to a listening room than a concert. Tickets at the smaller venues are usually under 150 yuan, and big touring acts from abroad will appear at the mid-sized halls rather than the clubs.
How a night runs
Doors are late. A support act might start at nine, the headline set at ten, and the room will still be filling at half past. Chinese audiences are attentive rather than loud during the music and animated between songs, and the smoking is heavier than you may be used to. Venues post bills on their own social accounts rather than through any central listings service, so it is worth asking at a record shop or a bar the day before rather than assuming you can turn up and find a show.
Practical notes
Tickets are sold through Chinese mobile apps and at the door; bring cash as a backup, since a few venues still have no card terminal. Take a photograph of the venue's Chinese name and address before you leave your hotel, because drivers will not recognise the English name and the venues are often set back inside a courtyard or a basement with a small sign. Taxis back are easy until about one in the morning and harder after that; the metro stops running around eleven.
