Beijing's parks open early, and what happens in the first two hours of the day has little to do with sightseeing. This is when the city's older residents arrive with flasks of tea, folding stools, radios and cards. Each park has its own character, but the rhythm is similar everywhere: exercise first, conversation second, breakfast on the way home.
Where to go
Ritan Park, in the diplomatic quarter east of the old city, is small, shaded and reliably busy, with groups doing tai chi and sword practice next to the ancient altar. Chaoyang Park, the largest green space in the centre, has broad lawns, a lake and long stretches of path used by runners and cyclists. Yuyuantan Park in the west fills with blossom in spring. Zizhuyuan, further northwest, is built around three lakes and a bamboo grove, and is quieter than the rest.
What you will see
Look for slow, deliberate tai chi and the faster, whipping form of sword dancing. Ballroom dancing happens in open squares, often with a portable speaker and a fixed daily group. Elsewhere you will find badminton played without a net, shuttlecock kicking in a circle, Chinese chess on stone tables, and groups of singers working through revolutionary and folk songs. Calligraphy is sometimes practised with water brushes on the flagstones, the characters drying and vanishing behind the writer.
Joining in
Visitors are treated with mild curiosity rather than suspicion. Standing back and watching is entirely normal. If you want to try tai chi, ask with a gesture and you will often be waved in; the classes are informal and the instructors are used to beginners. Avoid interrupting a set in progress, and do not film people close up without asking. A small bow or a nod is enough of a greeting.
Practical notes
Most parks charge a small entry fee, usually between two and ten yuan, and open around six in the morning. Weekends are noticeably busier than weekdays, and holidays can be crowded enough to swallow the atmosphere. Bring water, and note that the liveliest activity stops by about nine, when the groups disperse for breakfast.
