Jingshan Park is a 23-hectare hill park on the north side of the Forbidden City. The hill, about 46 metres high, was formed from the earth excavated when the palace moat and the lakes to the west were dug, and it sits exactly on Beijing's central north-south axis, the same line that runs through the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the Temple of Heaven.
The view
From the Wanchun Pavilion at the summit, the Forbidden City lies immediately below you: hall after hall of yellow glazed roofs on a straight axis, with the grey hutong districts spreading out on both sides and the Drum Tower to the north. It is the single best overview of imperial Beijing and it costs about two yuan to see. Late afternoon light on the roofs is the best time, and the park is one of the few places in the city that opens early enough for sunrise.
What else is there
Five pavilions are spaced along the north slope, each on a terrace with its own view. The east slope has a small peony garden that flowers in May, and the hillside is planted with pines, cypresses and scholar trees. A large rose garden sits on the southeastern side. On the south slope stands a stone tablet marking the spot where the Chongzhen Emperor, the last Ming emperor, died in 1644 as the dynasty fell - the hill was called Coal Hill in that era because it stored the palace fuel supply.
Practical notes
Enter from the south gate opposite the north gate of the Forbidden City, or from the east or west gates. Metro Line 8 stops at Shichahai, about ten minutes to the west; Line 6 at Nanluoguxiang, ten minutes east. There are stairs to the summit, so allow 20 minutes for the climb and wear shoes with grip in wet weather. The park is small - an hour is enough - and it combines naturally with a walk through the hutongs to the north or a visit to Beihai Park to the west.
Do not miss the sound
Late morning, groups of older Beijingers gather at the foot of the hill to sing, play the erhu and practise calligraphy with water on the paving stones. It is free, informal and a good look at how the park is used by people who live nearby.
