Beihai Park covers about 69 hectares immediately northwest of the Forbidden City, and more than half of that is water. A garden has existed on this site since the tenth century, which makes it the oldest imperial garden in Beijing, and what you walk through today was largely shaped in the Qing dynasty as a private retreat for the court.
Qionghua Island and the White Pagoda
The lake is dominated by Qionghua Island, reached by the Yong'an Bridge at the south end. On top of the hill stands the White Pagoda, a Tibetan-style stupa built in 1651 under the Shunzhi Emperor, who invited Tibetan lamas to Beijing. The climb up is 30 minutes of stairs, and the terrace below the pagoda looks south over the lake towards the Forbidden City rooftops.
Along the shore
The northern shore holds the Nine Dragon Screen, a glazed-tile wall of nine writhing dragons built in 1756 and one of only three in China. Nearby are the small halls of the Western Paradise and the Quiet Heart Studio, plus the Circular City at the south gate, which contains a huge jade bowl carved from a single block and a jade figure of the Buddha. The long covered corridor along the north bank is a good place to sit when it rains.
Boating and seasons
From roughly April to October you can rent a rowing boat or a pedal boat and take it out on the lake; the lotus flowers bloom through July and August. In winter the lake freezes and the boathouses close, but the park becomes a quiet place for a cold walk with far fewer visitors. The park has its own tulip display in spring and chrysanthemum show in autumn.
Visiting
Take Metro Line 6 to Beihai North, or Line 8 to Shichahai for the north gate. The park opens early and closes in the evening; the separate attractions inside charge small extra fees. The combined pass covers the island, the Circular City and the Nine Dragon Screen and is worth buying if you plan to see everything.
